Advanced Framing

Saturday, October 28, 2017

Optimal Value Engineered (OVE) or Advanced Framing techniques are framing techniques that use less lumber than conventional framing, yet are just as structurally sound. Using 5 to 10 percent less lumber is cheaper and faster because it uses 30 percent fewer framing pieces,21 which equates to a direct reduction in lumber package costs. But, as important, these methods also present one of our best opportunities to improve the thermal performance of the structure.

Remember, thermal performance is one of our primary goals. Because Advanced Framing uses less lumber, this leaves more space in the cavities to allow for higher levels of insulation, resulting in better thermal performance. In fact, Advanced Framing results in a 75 percent improvement in thermal performance22 over standard 2 × 4, 16-inch-on-center framing.  e lumber cost savings can add up to enough to cover the additional costs associated with improv- ing the thermal performance, including the cost of adding insulated sheathing to reduce thermal bridging through the wall assembly.

This is definitely a case of “less is more,” in that using less lumber saves trees and uses less money in your budget, with the added bonus of leaving more room for insulation, giving more thermal performance.  ink about that because it represents significant improvement in your building performance for minimal additional construction costs and lowers your long-term utility bills. So if you are planning a framed structure, you should make certain that your framing contractor has been trained in and practices the methods discussed here.

Advanced Framing

Many computer-aided design (CAD) programs can be set to a grid of either 16 inches or 24 inches on center (the distance from the center of one framing member like a wall stud or ceiling joist to the center of the next) to allow for ease of designing to these two basic spacing criteria. Providing these Advanced Framing details in your architectural plan sets can assure that you bene t from those cost savings and performance benefits. Better efficiency, improved comfort, and reduced costs are all achieved in each of the following methods:

Framing 24 Inches on Center: Exterior wall studs, floor joists and roof rafters can be spaced at 24 inches on center (as opposed to the conventional 16 inches on center). Depending on the load bearing on walls, framing lumber may require 2 × 6 studs rather than standard 2 × 4 framing. Note that the total cost (material and labor) for framing with 2×6 studs spaced 24 inches on center is about the same (since 30 percent fewer studs and only a single top plate are
required) and o en less than what it would have cost for 2 × 4 studs spaced 16 inches on center. Because there are fewer studs to cut, there is less waste.  is also saves labor for both your electrical and plumbing contractors, who now have to drill fewer penetrations for mechanical runs.

However, with most types of cavity- ll insulation (depending on climate R-value requirements), it may cost more to  ll a 2×6 cavity than to  ll the same structure framed with 2 × 4s.  is is not only due to the increased depth of the studs but also to using less framing materials overall, so it will take more insulation material than it would have for the same depth, regardless. In addition, the added two inches of wall thickness will require extension jambs at all of the windows unless drywall returns are used.

In-line Framing: Aligning the floor, wall and roof framing members directly above one another so the loads are transferred directly downward, requiring no additional structural support, can save considerably on structural engineering and framing costs. With in-line framing for improved load stability, double top plates can be eliminated because the load is distributed evenly through the remaining single top plate. Note that studs that are 24 inches on center are placed in direct alignment with floor joists spaced 24 inches on center and directly below roof trusses spaced 24 inches on center.  e structural concept is to align all point loads to carry the weight directly down to the ground.

Headers Sized for Actual Loads: Structural headers are o en over- sized or installed over all window and door openings, regardless of whether or not they are structurally necessary. When the size of the window used is specified in conjunction with in-line framing, headers are not necessary because no studs need to be cut. If walls are not load bearing, no headers are required over window or door openings. Having your structural engineer specify which areas will require headers, as well as the size of each header required, will save both materials and money.

In most cases right-sized headers can be pushed to the outside of the framed wall assembly, allowing for insulation on the inside of each header cavity, which not only improves the overall thermal performance of the wall assembly but also eliminates thermal bridging at the headers. Note that it is possible and now required by code to insulate headers by using foam sheathing as a spacer in place of plywood or oriented strand board (OSB), either between or on one side (preferably the exterior side) of doubled headers.  is technique uses scrap foam sheathing to reduce thermal bridging through the wood header.

Two-stud Corners (California Corner) with Drywall Clips:  is method of corner framing uses only two studs, saving material and providing space for additional insulation in the corner. To attach drywall in a two-stud corner, drywall clips are fitted onto the edges of the drywall before being attached to wood or steel studs.  is eliminates the need for an additional stud in the corner to attach the drywall.

Window and Door Placement: By aligning at least one side of each window and door to an existing wall stud, use of an additional jack stud is not necessary. If the window or door width does not completely  ll the cavity and align with the next stud, you can attach the other side to the next stud with a metal hanger.  is eliminates the need to frame additional studs to support the load transfer around these penetrations in the wall assemblies.

Interior Partition Walls Intersecting with Exterior Walls (T-walls): Traditional framing addresses T-wall intersections by adding studs at each side of the partition solely for the purpose of providing a surface for attaching drywall. Ladder blocking between the exterior studs behind the partition wall uses two-foot scraps of lumber to provide the same supporting structure and allows for much better wall insulation and reducing thermal bridging. You can use scrap wood for ladder blocking, reducing the additional lumber you need to purchase.

Structured Plumbing

Thursday, October 26, 2017

A greater water savings can be realized by downsizing the diameter of the pipes and reducing the number of runs using the structured plumbing approach. With today’s more water-efficient fixtures and appliances, we no longer need three- quarter-inch runs or even half-inch runs to each outlet.  is not only saves on your plumbing materials, it also saves water over the life of the home.

The structured plumbing design uses twig lines that typically extend no further than ten feet from the main trunk, with the exception of large volume  fixtures at garden tubs, clothes washers or sinks in a kitchen island that run the water line through a concrete slab.  is type of system uses less pipe and can be installed faster, saving money on your base bids. Since water stays hot longer in the larger main trunk line, only the water in the twig lines is lost down the drain when hot water is already in the main loop.

Structured Plumbing

The best strategy for reducing water wasted down the drain waiting for hot water delivery is a structured plumbing system con- trolled by an on-demand pump.  is can use a closed hot water circulation loop with a dedicated return line to the water heater or use the cold water line to return water until hot water is delivered to the open  fixture.

Even if your home design is plumbed through using a standard plumbing branch and twig run, you can still install an on-demand recirculation pump at the fixture farthest from the water heater. If your plumbing is designed such that you have numerous wet locations in different directions some distance from the water heater, you may need to install multiple demand pumps at the furthest fixture on each run.  e pumps are operated by a wireless door- bell button or light switch that is activated only when hot water is needed at that location. Other wet areas along the same line may also have activation switches to run the same pump at the end of the line.  e pump contains a temperature sensor and will recirculate the cold water back through the line until the set temperature is reached. When you hear the pump cut o , you can open the faucet
and have hot water at the location without any water wasted down the drain. Soon you will learn to  ip the switch or push the button if you are preparing to use hot water, just as you  ip the light switch when you enter the room. By the time you undress to shower or get the dinner ingredients out of the fridge, you will have hot water delivery.

Resist suggestions to install a motion sensor on these demand pumps.  ink about how o en you go in the bathroom or kitchen and do not need hot water. If you have motion sensors installed, the pump will run every time, using energy even when you don’t need it. And don’t even think about installing a continuously operating circulating system, even if you intend to put it on a timer. Consider how many minutes you actually use hot water in the morning or evening compared to the number of hours you would set the timer to run constant circulation. Your water usage will vary day to day, even during the work week when you are on a more rigid schedule. And what about weekends? Are you going to set the timer to run from 7 am to 11 pm because you do not know when you might need hot water with everyone in and out of the house all day?  is is very wasteful and expensive to do.

These on-demand hot water systems pay for themselves quickly when the dollars saved in both lower water bills and reduced water- heating costs are combined.  e added convenience of not having to wait standing outside the shower watching water go down the drain is a great plus too. Compared to a constant circulation hot water system or a tankless water heater at each wet location (your only other options if you want hot water fast), these on-demand systems use far less energy since they only operate a few minutes per day instead of constantly. Convenience, water conservation and lower utility cost make this the best option to consider if you can- not design a central core system.

Central Core Plumbing Design

A large percentage of the cost of plumbing (both materials and labor) is due to long pipe runs. These same long pipe runs also mean more line full of water all the time, waiting to be wasted down the drain whenever you turn on the hot water tap. Shortening the plumbing runs saves initials costs of plumbing the home and saves water costs for the life of the home.

 e most efficient plumbing design is to locate all of your wet areas (kitchen, baths and laundry) adjacent, or at least close, to each other and the water heater. If you are building more than a one- story home, the same is true for stacked plumbing locations, where upstairs bathrooms and laundry rooms are stacked directly above downstairs kitchen, laundry and powder room locations.  is will deliver the best hot water service with the least amount of waste. Even if your home cannot be designed with a compact plumbing scheme, try to centrally locate the water heater at or near most of the wet areas.


Plumbing Design

With an exploding world population and shrinking supply of fresh water on the planet, many say (and we agree) that water resources are the next gold standard. In many areas of the country, potable water costs have doubled and tripled in just the last couple of years.10 To survive the coming supply and demand problems, we are going to have to find ways to get the most from every drop.

Plumbing piping systems provide both hot and cold water delivery, so design considerations provide the greatest bene t for indoor water conservation. It is important to remember that water stays in the plumbing lines all of the time. So every time you turn on the hot water, you will be wasting all the water already in the line waiting for that hot water to get to you from the water heater.  is means you are paying for and wasting water that you never even use!

Efficient hot water delivery is achieved through a whole-system design approach, not just considering the type of water heater to be installed. Nothing can kill the efficiency of a high-efficiency water heater more quickly than a poorly designed distribution system. For efficient hot water delivery, you must have one of the following:

• Water heating equipment located within 20 feet (30 feet on 2-story homes) of all the wet locations in the house.  is could be a tanked or a tankless unit.
• A manifold plumbing system (replaces the main water line with multiple smaller lines run to each  fixture) with the manifold (split) centrally located within 10 feet of the water heater and no single branch line length exceeding 15 feet.
• A structured plumbing system (not a manifold system) consists of a main trunk line that services the entire house with smaller branch and twig lines to each wet area and  fixtures, with an on-demand water recirculating system installed at the  fixture(s) farthest from the water heater, and pump controls located at all wet locations along those long runs in the home.

Another critical element in achieving efficient hot water delivery is pipe insulation. No matter how efficient your design is in delivering hot water to the  fixtures, we still see significant temperature drops during transmission or while water is sitting in the lines waiting for the next draw to occur. Also, when the hot water pipes are not insulated adequately, there are substantial heat losses from hot water running through pipes within the conditioned space of the home that add to the cooling load of the air conditioner. Insulation is cheap, easily installed and means hotter water at the tap for you and your family with a lower temperature setting on the water heater. Insulating three-quarter-inch pipe with three-quarter-inch insulation will triple the time before the water cools down; insulating half-inch pipe with half-inch insulation will double the cool-down period.

Framing Details

Framing details are necessary with almost any building structural system in use today. Straw bale buildings must have structural support members for load-bearing walls and roof assemblies, rammed earth buildings need structural framing for door and window openings, and of course, wood-framed homes need lots of details for structure and weatherproofing assemblies.

Design details provide templates for structural stability to keep the roof on the building (very important!), especially during high- risk events like snow storms or tornados. Wall assemblies also keep air infiltration manageable, help keep rain-driven water out of the wall assembly and allow moisture and water vapor that does get inside the wall to dry out. These details will vary depending on the climate location that the home is built in.

Your home plans should include framing details for every build- ing section, as well as detailed assembly specifications for walls, foundation, roof members and water flashing details for roofs, walls, windows and doors. The basic principles related to the building envelope are more influenced by design than the materials themselves, so they are best addressed here. By providing framing details in the drawings, framing contractors onsite are less likely to over-build assemblies, thinking that it is better to err on the side of adding more lumber than is necessary for structural integrity than not enough. Do not assume that the education level of a framing crew provides expertise in structural engineering or waterproofing. Instead, have your structural engineer or architect provide the framing and waterproofing details for wall, roof and  floor assemblies (if you are not using engineered trusses or panelized assemblies). This will save you money because every material you purchase will be used as it was intended, instead of being mis- used, requiring you to purchase more materials either during construction or to repair poor workmanship later. O en construction drawings give the crew no clue as to how to waterproof and  ash the critical openings and junctions in the house where most leaks will occur. A recent article in Builder Magazine8 found that about one-third of US homebuilders still don’t properly  ash windows to prevent direct intrusion by rain. It stated that water leaks, especially around windows due to improper  flashing, “routinely tops the list of builder callbacks.” It is imperative to the durability of your home that the  flashing materials and their installation be detailed on the drawings.

Good building science is the perfect partner to green materials and design. Using the right materials to create the right building system for your climate will maximize the durability, healthfulness, comfort and efficiency of your new home. Make certain that your architect or engineer is on-board with your desire to maximize structural integrity while reducing waste and achieving a water- tight, durable and healthy structure.

If you have hired a custom builder for your project and are not working with the architect directly, you should make certain that the home plans that the builder is offering you have been designed according to the strategies outlined in this chapter to ensure that construction will be resource efficient. You should also ask the builder for written specifications for the basic building materials that are included in his quote for the home. Better to  find out up- front if there are any surprises coming down that will throw you o  budget.

Wall Design

To optimize your design for resource efficiency, you will need to decide what type of structural system you will employ. As we discussed in the section on “Designing on Two-Foot Modules,” various building materials are manufactured in standardized sizes. In addition to dimensional lumber, this also applies to many alternative and natural building materials. Straw bale comes in standard bale dimensions, structural insulated panels (SIPs) and insulated concrete forms (ICFs) come in standard 4-foot wide and 8-, 9- or 10-foot heights, and autoclaved aerated blocks come in fixed block sizes. Knowing which type of system you will use will save you money on both materials and labor.

Building Stacked Stories

Foundation, wall and roof assemblies represent large portions of typical construction budgets. Stacked structures with more than one story can save considerably on material resources and therefore cost. Using in-line framing techniques the  floor, wall and roof framing members are vertically aligned with one another so that loads are transferred directly downward, providing a sound structural assembly using less framing lumber. Also, since multi-story homes have a smaller footprint than single-story structures, they can be built at higher density, reducing land costs for affordable urban sites.

Building Stacked Stories

 
 
 

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